Wargame Rules


I am very keen to keep my wargame rules as simple as possible yet capture the character of the 1790s. Accordingly, most of the French troops are 'levee' battalions, which I have chosen to base in column as their ability to change formation on a battlefield must have been limited, nor do I believe their volley fire had any great value. Of better quality, able to change formation, will be white-coated regular and blue-coated volunteer battalions aided by a fair number of skirmishers. The British, Austrian, Dutch and German armies are often outnumbered, but they maintain the discipline and order of typical 18th century armed forces. Interestingly, French revolutionary cavalry have little in common with their later Napoleonic counterparts, the former are few in number, often poorly mounted, and no match for those in the service of the Allies.


Saturday, 20 April 2019

Wargaming the American Revolutionary War

Finally got round to playing an AWI wargame. It was a simple scenario, a British brigade was instructed to occupy/liberate a small town in New Jersey. A Royal Navy battery was in attendance, with instructions to open up a barrage on any 'key position' before the general advance. A dice determined four shots per gun, they would then cease firing. Although Rebel numbers, formed into two Continental, one partisan, and one militia brigade, gave them a numerical strength, their morale levels were considerably lower. The Naval battery inflicted some casualties on a prominent farmhouse but still failed to clear this location, This continued to be an irritation during this action. The British now advanced, opposition fire was initially light, but it did get heavier. The British kept their first volley in reserve, and relied on several bayonet charges. They were successful, the first line, largely broke. The second line, mainly Continentals, exchanged volleys with the Redcoats, with fairly equal losses. Wisely, the British Centre did not persist in its advance, seeking to rely on their Left wing to steadily advance. The Right Wing was largely inactive, the exchange of light field guns being ineffectual. But it was the charge of some Loyalist cavalry that shocked the game, the Continental light troops broke, and were severely chopped up by the slashing sabres. This gap in the Rebel lines allowed the cavalry to enter the town's main street, and this game concluded.

Monday, 11 March 2019


Apologies for the lack of posts on this page during the last few months. Just before Christmas I started on a new project to raise, restore, and upgrade some 54mm Medieval armies, using the 1970s Herald Range of figures, produced by W. Britains. I have nearly completed some 300 Guelph and Ghibelline figures now, and have started to upload photos on my other blog, Scimitar and Crescent Wargames (see link on this page). I must express how much of a pleasure it has been to move to this larger scale, and to view and repair some figures I had in my childhood. Perhaps its also the less formal historical criteria in collecting these figures which has made it such a joy.  Here's a few photos from my new/old collection. Hope they are still of some interest to the followers of this Late 18th Century Blog.


Tuesday, 1 January 2019


On Christmas Day I was inspired to start a suitably appropriate project, to build a Russian Orthodox Church. It was a year ago that I picked up a wooden container in a charity shop for £1, and it was obvious the lid would be quite suitable for something eastern, and perfect for something Russian. The following photos are pretty well self-explanatory. The completed model is not really dateable as it has features from several periods in Russian history, but as it was my intention to not only capture my interest in the State of Muscovy, but also my love of Christmas, I don't think it matters. The green roof is inspired by a 17th century Russian palace, the dome is very 16th century, the yellow walls are 18th century, while the woodwork ornamentation is medieval. Together, they make a very colourful ornament on the war-games table. Additional costs were £3 for the yellow paint, and £2 for the glass taken from a broken lantern in a charity shop. With additional paint and glue it came to £7 total. Being pleased with the results, I took time to cast up some Orthodox Christian crosses. For the record, working on and off, I completed this project at 11.45am today, New Years Day. Hope you all had a great Christmas, and have a Happy New Year!

Monday, 19 November 2018


It was time to clear away the half-completed projects, and see how the table looks with my American Revolutionary collection. The figures are mostly X-Range Hezzlewoods, with a few Fife & Drum and Crann Tara Miniatures. I'm now ready for a brigade level action.

Friday, 12 October 2018

Finally, the Farmers have ploughed those Fields

Just a quick follow-on to the recent upload on my system for creating roads. Have now used the moleskin to provide several ploughed fields and, again, the material really does sit well on the static grass tabletop. Also included in the photos below, a miniature Christmas tree picked up in a charity shop yesterday for £1. It came with some rather nice scaled-down decorations, and only required a quick paint job to its original white plastic base.

Wednesday, 3 October 2018

Light Troops for the Loyal Emigrants c.1795

With my Loyal Emigrants now forming up into two battalions, I wanted this famous regiment to have their own flank companies. Have just completed the light infantry, in their distinctive wide brimmed hats with green plume, band, and lace, recorded by contemporary sources. Next, the grenadiers.

Saturday, 22 September 2018

Finally, A Road System I'm happy with!

My lack of roads on my main table has long been an issue. Commercial products are costly and often fail to provide a suitable flat surface for figures to cross over. Decided to use a piece of moleskin-cotton fabric I had in my store of cloth, which was uncannily the same colour as my brown bases. Chris (family/wargamer) felt it provided the answer but hardly looked anything special. So I decided to texture and seal the edges with wood glue and green static grass. But then I tested out some acrylic paint to create tracks on the roads, using brown, sand, and white combinations. To my pleasure, it not only soaked in perfectly but is totally permanent. What I also like about this material is that it stays snug and lays flat on the static grass covered board, no movement whatsoever. Did I mention the border edge is only 1mm high, and has little impact on multi-based figures. I'm very pleased with the results and have more than enough for any possible projects. The cloth was actually given to me by a lady friend in the trade.
(ps. recently put together this home-cast cart and some odd wheels which fortunately were the same diameter, decided to make a small vignette............... I blame the roads lol.)